morrisfamilyblog

The life and times of the Morris family (Phil, Elle, Evie and Jude) as they settle down to life in Australia, and whatever else comes along.

Sunday, April 08, 2007

The ride into work the other morning demonstrated two sides of life on the roads of Nepal. The good side: I was late and jumped on the pedals to overtake a bus, when my chain snapped (no, this isn't the good bit!). Frustrated, I coasted to the side of the road and spotted a bike shop near by. The lad working there didn't have any proper tools, but made up for this with enthusiasm, and within 5 minutes had repaired it using a large hammer, a pair of pliers and a small screw. When I was charged 10 rupees, I felt a bit hard done by - until I converted into GBP: about 7p.

The bad side? Just after getting my chain fixed, a bus coming towards me hooting its horn pulled out into the middle of the road to avoid a bit pothole. A motorbike that was overtaking the bus, also hooting its horn, was forced into a collision course with me. I swerved off the road, and without blinking, the motorbike shot past still hooting its horn. No one will deliberately kill you on the roads in Nepal, it is just that if you are on a push-bike, you are at the bottom of the food chain!

As far as I can gather, the word for road - bato - is also used for a dirt track, or even a footpath, and people don't really distinguish between them. As a walker therefore (or as a cow, buffalo, or dog), you have as much right to walk on a main highway, as you do on the path that leads to your house. There is no real right of way on the roads in Nepal, and everyone seems to have (or assume that they have) an equal right to any piece of road. People pull onto main roads, off main roads, stop to talk to other drivers or overtake without a thought of others around them. However, despite witnessing some terrifying manoeuvers I am yet to spot anyone getting angry or frustrated – not a hint of road rage.

A question from the Nepali theory driving test (optional): The car ahead of you puts on their right indicator (assuming it works). Which of the following is the most likely message the driver is trying to put across. 1) I am turing right. 2) The road ahead is clear, you can overtake me on the right. 3) It is dark, my headlights are not working and I am letting the oncoming vehicle know how wide I am. 4) The light has been incorrectly wired and I am actually braking.
p

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